The 116618 is the 18 karat yellow gold Submariner Date, and it is the hardest Submariner to copy well because gold has a density that plating cannot imitate. If you are buying a fake 116618, buy the version with the thickest gold layer and a 28,800 vph movement, ask for the actual weight in grams before you pay, and treat every water resistance claim as unproven until a watchmaker pressure tests the case. Sellers who can answer those three questions clearly are usually the ones worth dealing with. Sellers who answer with words like "1:1" and "AAA" are telling you nothing.
What the Genuine 116618 Actually Is
Knowing the real watch makes the comparison easier. The reference 116618 is a 40 mm Submariner Date in 18 karat yellow gold with a ceramic bezel insert, a sapphire crystal, a date at 3 o'clock under a magnifying cyclops, and a screw down crown rated to 300 meters. It was produced from roughly 2008 until the reference was replaced in the lineup around 2020. Two looks dominate: the LN with a black dial and black bezel, and the LB with a blue dial and blue bezel. Both share the same Oyster case shape and Oyster bracelet with a glide style extension clasp.
What to Check Before You Pay
Case metal and gold thickness
This is the whole game on a gold watch. Ask what the case core is made of and how the gold is applied. Solid plated cases on a brass or steel core are the entry option. Heavier plating over steel or a tungsten alloy is the middle option. Gold wrap, where a sheet of gold is bonded to the case, is the top option and the only one that behaves like gold when you handle it.
Movement and beat rate
Ask for the beat rate and the date function. A movement running at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) sweeps smoothly and is the minimum acceptable standard. A 21,600 vph movement is a budget unit and the sweep looks coarse next to the real thing. You also want hacking (the seconds stop when you pull the crown) and a quickset date.
Bezel insert and dial
Genuine inserts use recessed numerals filled with a coating that catches light. Cheap replicas print or sticker the numerals and they look flat and slightly raised. On the dial, check the coronet shape, the sunburst finish on the blue version, the spacing of the printing, and the lume plots at the hour markers. Lume that is applied unevenly or sits above the dial surface is a fast tell.
Bracelet, clasp, and weight
Weigh the watch, on the bracelet, in grams. A genuine full gold example sits in the 240 to 255 gram range. A good replica with a tungsten core lands near 200 to 230 grams. A plated steel or brass case usually comes in at 150 to 170 grams, and that lightness is the first thing anyone notices in the hand. Check that the end links sit flush against the case with no step, and that the clasp closes with a solid click.
Crystal, cyclops, and date
The cyclops should magnify the date about 2.5 times and sit centered over the window. A halo of distortion around the edge, a crooked cyclops, or a date wheel with the wrong font are the details most people see first at arm's length.
Parameter Bands to Compare
- Case diameter: 40 mm genuine. Anything under 39 mm or over 41 mm reads wrong on the wrist.
- Case thickness: about 12.5 mm genuine. Above 14 mm the watch sits tall and the profile changes.
- Lug width: 20 mm, with end links that meet the case without a gap.
- Weight: 150 to 170 g for plated steel, 200 to 230 g for tungsten core, 240 g and up for a close match to gold.
- Plating: 3 to 5 microns entry, 8 to 15 microns mid, gold wrap at the top.
- Beat rate: 21,600 vph is a warning, 28,800 vph is the target.
- Bezel: ceramic insert with filled numerals, never printed or stickered.
- Cyclops: 2.5x magnification, centered, no visible ring of distortion.
Common Pitfalls
- Grading language that means nothing. Any seller using tiers like AAA or 1:1 without listing metal, movement, and thickness is selling on adjectives.
- A movement described as Swiss that arrives unmarked and unverifiable.
- Flaking at the crown guards, lug edges, and clasp, which are the high contact points.
- Green or dark residue on the wrist, a sign of copper or nickel under the plating.
- Water resistance promises with no pressure test report. Gaskets on replicas are the first part to fail.
- Returns refused once the watch has been worn or resized.
- Strap and bracelet sizing quoted without confirming the clasp type on the watch you actually receive.
Legal and Practical Reality
In the United States, importing counterfeit goods that carry a registered trademark is prohibited, and customs authorities can seize a shipment with no compensation to the buyer. Selling or reselling counterfeit goods carries civil and criminal exposure that is far more serious than buying for personal use. If a seller markets a watch as solid gold when the case is plated steel, that is a separate problem and it is fraud. Budget accordingly, and do not treat a replica as an asset.
FAQ
Is a fake 116618 worth buying at all?
Only if your expectation matches the tier you pay for. A mid tier watch gets the look on the wrist. A top tier watch gets the weight and the finish. No replica gets the resale value or the service history of the genuine reference.
Which movement should I ask for?
A clone of the original automatic caliber running at 28,800 vph, or a Swiss made ETA or Sellita equivalent at the same beat rate. Ask for the beat rate in numbers, not brand names.
Can I swim with one?
Not until a watchmaker has pressure tested it and confirmed the gaskets hold. Assume it is not water resistant when it arrives.
Why does weight matter so much on this reference?
Because gold is roughly twice as dense as steel, and that difference is what your hand registers before your eye does. A light gold Submariner feels wrong immediately, no matter how good the dial looks.
How do I care for a plated gold case?
Keep it away from abrasive cleaners, chlorine, and repeated contact with sweat and sunscreen, which speed up wear at the edges. Wipe it with a soft cloth after wearing and store it dry.